There we are, surrounded by the fishing armada of the People's Republic
of China. We have Hangzou 145 miles on our left and are about 15 miles
east of some islands off the coast of mainland China. The engine is on
and we have a stump of mast left and are flying our stormssails on an
improvised rig. It is about 5 degrees outside, bright clear skies, a
calm sea and the wind in the back. 2 More days to Qindao with our
current speed. What a bizarre situation...
A week ago we were sailing in tropical conditions finding the best
route and sail plan to get to gate ahead of anybody else, swapping
spinnakers for Yankees plotting our next moves, keeping an eye on the
competition and all with success. We scored one gate point as we crossed
the gate in 3rd place. The wind by then had increased from non existent
to 28 knots and the seas were very steep and pointy as a result of wind
over current and underwater shallows. It was bumpy and nasty and the boat
was constantly slamming giving us sleepless off watch hours and an
occasional headache. As the gate was south of Taiwan we soon after
crossing it managed to get into the infamous Japan Current which runs
south to north at a rate of about 2-3 knots along the coast of Taiwan.
we picked up the current together with the two boats ahead of us and
made good but bumpy progress. As the weather was turning less
favourable inshore the entire fleet went off shore to pick up a more
easterly wind which would give a better angle to pass Taiwan, but we all
got parked up. We then decided to pick up on the breeze we found, hoist
our light weight spinaker and follow the breeze inshore, back to the
current. This proved a good move as we ended up in 1st position. Then
the wind changed (as predicted) first direction and then it picked up to
a blustery 25-28 knots. With the wind and current in opposite directions
the seas started building again. The sea state was a lot better than
south of Taiwan and we managed to keep good speed and angle. I went off
watch thinking if this stays and does not increase we are doing great.
Next thing I wake up in my bunk, mid air as our boat drops off the
biggest wave we have come acroiss so far. As the boat hit the trough and
I was slammed down on my mattress I heard this massive bang and then
I was hit by silence. "The forestay (the most loose part of our rig) is
gone" was my first thought and I immediately corrected that because it
was too quiet on deck. Damn! The rig, it's the rig. Within a split
second I was in my drysuit (which happened to be in my bunk) and on
deck. The rig was bent over our starboard side and was compressing the
guardrail footplates into the deck. The on watch had already begun to
cut away the stays and stanchions. I did most of the running rigging. We
cut away the top third of the mast and salvaged our mainsail and boom.
The staysail unfortunately went with the mast and inner forestay.
There was no panic and a sound discipline on deck in getting everything
sorted to make sure we could start the engine. This really is a very
relaxed group of people when it comes to emergencies. :-) Glad to be
part of it.
We motored into Hua-Lien escorted by the coast guard and were met by a
bunch of media as we berthed at the coast guard centre. That evening the
commander of the local coast guard station invited us for a New Year's
drinking and eating session and after many rounds of gambei and a few
rounds of karaoke we headed off to All Stars (a bar with live music) for
a really great session in letting steam off. We had a great party
dancing on the chairs and tables and the Chinese liquor consumed
earlier that evening definitely helped.
Never thought I would have to drink Chinese liquor ever again after
quitting my job. Anyway it tasted the same: HORRIBLE.
